Watch maintenance

How much does it cost to maintain the watch? Why are the costs of different brands so different?

20210625170845

How much does it cost to maintain the watch? Why are the costs of different brands so different?

After many people start to wear watches, they will suddenly find that mechanical watches need regular maintenance. This is mainly due to the fact that the mechanical watch is actually very fragile, and various small bumps will inevitably occur in life, and the complicated mechanical watch will inevitably appear to be stuck in the calendar due to too many functions, and will be notified when it is repaired. Need maintenance by the way. The maintenance cost is really not cheap, so watch friends often ask how often the watch should be maintained, and how much is the maintenance cost reasonable?


Old watch friends know that the maintenance cost of a watch is directly linked to the price of the watch. The more expensive your watch, the higher the maintenance cost. As for why this is so? Most people who don’t know how to pretend to understand will tell you that it is because the more expensive the watch movement is, the more complicated it is and the more difficult it is. Is it really?

Watch maintenance costs less than 20,000 yuan are the cheapest

Watch brands less than 20,000 yuan mainly include Tissot, Mido, Certina, Longines, etc. These watch brands mainly use ETA movements or derivative movements that have been modified on the basis of ETA movements.


Under the premise that the movement and maintenance procedures are the same, a Tissot watch will cost about three to four hundred yuan for one maintenance, while Mido will need four to five hundred yuan. Longines watches using ETA movements often cost 600-800 yuan. The P80 movement currently used by Tissot, Mido, Hamilton, etc., in fact, the P80 movement is a reduced-cost movement with a lower cost than the ETA2824 movement. But their structures are similar, and the man-hours for disassembly and installation are also the same.

 

The maintenance cost of a watch of 30,000 to 50,000 yuan basically starts at 1,000 yuan

Watches with 30,000 to 50,000 yuan mainly include Omega, Cartier, IWC, etc. Many of them still use ETA movements or derivative movements based on ETA movements. But compared to watches below 20,000 yuan, they mainly use the ETA2892 movement with a higher positioning.

The maintenance cost of a watch at this price is generally around 1,000-1,500 yuan, provided that no parts are damaged and need to be replaced. Of course, it is quite normal for a cousin to say that he spent his early 2000s.

 

Even if the watch brands of the same level use exactly the same movement, their prices will vary by tens of thousands of yuan. This is mainly due to the fact that watches are mainly about brand value, and the selling price and cost of luxury goods are not linked. Therefore, maintenance costs will naturally rise.

 

Their maintenance procedures are actually not much different from Tissot, Longines, etc. Some watch friends will comfort themselves because the movement is positioned at a higher end and the maintenance materials are more expensive.

The maintenance cost of watches above 70,000 yuan starts at almost 2,000 yuan, while the maintenance cost of watches above 100,000 to 150,000 yuan will have a bigger gap, ranging from 3,000 yuan to 5,000 yuan is normal!

Watch styles that go up in this price range generally use self-produced movements. Although Rolex has many styles, most of the three-hand single-calendar watches use the CAL.3135 and the newly launched CAL.3235 movement. Many people like to use scarcity to prove that the movement is expensive. In fact, the sales of Rolex watches in 2019 have far exceeded the supply of ETA movements. In other words, CAL.3135 and CAL.3235 movements are not scarce.

For watches with simple styles, that is, three-needle models, whether it is an ETA movement or a self-produced movement, the movement structure itself is the simplest. The maintenance process and working hours are also similar. The difference in cost is mainly due to the different risks of the watch brand during the maintenance process, and the maintenance tools used are also somewhat different. Since you can accept the high premiums of high-end brands, you can naturally accept that their maintenance costs will be more expensive.


For the complex styles of some top brands, the movement structure will be more complicated and will consume more man-hours, so the higher cost is understandable. After all, a Vacheron Constantin alligator strap is already more expensive than a Mido watch. But how often does the watch need to be maintained? It really can’t be compared with the car’s maintenance cycle. In general, it is reasonable to maintain a watch every 3-5 years, but most watches do not actually need to be maintained if they are not damaged. Because there is a failure, maintenance will be carried out by the way. So, how much is the most expensive maintenance cost for your watch?

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